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Happy Spring!

Brave little flower sticking it’s head through the parched ground as we hope for a Summer of good rain[/caption] ” Spring has sprung” so the saying goes, but not here in the Lowveld where, for the past week or so, we have had a little bit of Winter instead – our first real taste of Winter this year I might add. We have also – astonishingly, had some rain, 21mm to be exact, which, although I feel I should be pleased that our parched bushveld has had some respite from the ongoing drought, I find rather worrying as it is so unseasonal. Unseasonal should probably be something that I am used to. As a weaver who weaves for the love of it, and hopes to sell most of it, I constantly find that I am weaving against the seasons so to speak. When the Summer temperatures soar into the forties, I am sweating in front of my loom making mohair throws and Merino shawls, and conversely, in Winter I do the light cotton wraps and brightly coloured cotton cushion covers. At the moment – for once – I’m actually doing something which suits the ‘ between seasons’ feeling which comes with the first day of Spring. On my ‘Katie’ loom – the MIGHTY Katie – I have enough warp for two silk scarves. I have in my stash, some ultra fine silk thread which I bought many years ago – in fact, before I left Gauteng, and every once in a while I have a flight of fancy and use some of this magnificent yarn for a special project. [caption id="attachment_857" align="alignleft" width="169"] Silk scarf project beginning to get under way, showing the stripes on a Rosepath threading and some of the Basket Weave detail[/caption]   The design for the scarf is a twill and tabby warp stripe, with just a hint of basket weave, because I liked the subtle textural detail of the basket weave separating the Tabby and the Twill stripes. It is an off-shoot of the warp twill stripe fabric that I made a month or two ago as an experiment in the use of Twill stripes in the warp as opposed to the weft. Thank goodness for the experiment, because without it I would have found myself in all sorts of trouble with the current project. Firstly, when attempting something like this it is important to know ¬†that you cannot have both twill and tabby stripes in the same warp on four shafts. You can have alternating bands of twill and basket weave on four shafts, but in order to have alternating twill and tabby stripes you need at least six shafts – four for the twill and two for the tabby. If you think about it, you will realize that on a straight threading with a 2/2 lift plan you cannot lift every alternate warp thread in the tabby sections – you just can’t – it doesn’t work out, hence the need for the extra two shafts. [caption id="attachment_862" align="alignright" width="169"] First Twill stripe project in Mercerised Cotton[/caption] Secondly, when working on alternating twill and tabby stripes in the warp, the twill and tabby sections must be sett at different densities. The reason for this is the number of binding points in each weave structure. A ‘Binding Point’ ¬†occurs at every point at which a weft thread crosses over a warp thread or vice-versa. Thus a Tabby weave has more binding points than any of the twills, and has double the number of binding points than a 2/2 twill. If one sleys the warp at the same density throughout without compensating for this, one will find that the twill sections will automatically beat down more than the tabby sections , resulting in an uneven fell as the tabby builds up at a faster rate than the twill. The difference in sett for the tabby and twill sections of a warp made in this way can be as much as 50%! These two vital pieces of information had been languishing in the archives of my weaver’s brain for so long, that I only remembered them when I started weaving the experiment and realized my mistake. I guess that this happens to all of us, and it takes a potential disaster to remind us of what we’ve forgotten! (Or we can sample……. another pet topic of mine, for another blog!). Without the experience of the experiment I would have been in serious bother with the Silk Scarf, but I’m pleased to be able to report that all is running smoothly – if rather slowly as a result of the ridiculously fine thread that I’m using. I threaded the tabby sections on four shafts and the twill on the other four – just felt nicely balanced to do it this way, and the twill sections are sett at 18 e.p.c, while the tabby sections are sett at only 12 e.p.c – quite a difference. And yes, I am talking ‘ ends per centimeter’ here, not ends per inch. [caption id="attachment_859" align="alignleft" width="182"] Ridiculous, I know! Detail of pattern with measure.[/caption] Sitting at about halfway through the first scarf, I’m questioning my sanity in using thread this fine, but then I remember what it is for, and I put on some music (I’m revisiting some of my favourite, big, schmaltzy piano concerti at the moment), find my rhythm, and off I go. The wind can carry on howling as far as I’m concerned, I’m on a journey into the world of extra fine weaving and enjoying every moment of the ride. The challenge now is to finish it in time for the big day. Meanwhile – ” Happy Spring” and wishes for the blessings of good rainfall this Summer.          ]]>

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